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PALAWAN Palawan is one of the Philippines' last frontiers - still relatively undeveloped, it offers spectacular landscapes, world-class diving and a wildlife that has more in common with nearby Borneo than that of the other Philippine islands. Borneo and Palawan would have been connected by a land bridge during the last Ice Age.
The Coron Wrecks
Busuanga is the largest island in the Calamian Group, covering some 900 square miles. The island is home to a game reserve and wildlife sanctuary, as well as being the pathway to some truly outstanding dive sites. Fishing, farming and cottage industries are the main activ¬ities of the islanders although the improvement of travel links to the island is now showing results and Busuanga is gradually receiving tourists.
The World War II wrecks around Busuanga Island, particularly in Coron Bay, have been one of Philippine diving's best-kept secrets. Here is a condensed version of Truk Lagoon in the Caroline Islands, Micronesia - a legendary (and, unfortunately, expensive) destination among divers for its large concentration of World War II Japanese wrecks. Admittedly the Coron sites are not easy to get to and accommodation is limited, but the area is rewarding to visit and prices are reasonable. The visibility is not brilliant, but the wrecks are not that deep and the currents not that strong, though it is always best to choose neap tides and, if possible, slack water.
Twelve wrecks have so far been located in diveable depths, though those nearest to the Busuanga mainland suffer from poor visibility due to water runoff and plankton bloom. Most of the wrecks are long day trips from Coron Town, and some are best treated as an overnight trip, so you are not likely to dive here in really bad weather, though you can dive quite happily in heavy rain. The deeper wrecks have many fishing nets caught on them, so approach these with care.
Early research on some of these vessels was done by wreck expert Brian Homan. More recently, in 1993-4, Peter Heimstaedt and Mike Rohringer from Germany did extensive research both on the wrecks themselves and in Japan, through the Military History Department of the Japanese National Institute for Defence Studies in Tokyo. Heimstaedt, a former officer in the Federal German Navy, is currently writing up this research. The scenery of Coron Island's limestone cliffs and tiny isolated beach coves is spectacular, as is that around its freshwater lakes. The diving is not confined exclusively to the wrecks, though these are the reason most divers would come here. Due mainly to typhoon damage, the coral is not that spectacular, but there is some perfect snorkelling to be had where it is good. Areas near to seven pearl farms, a fish farm and lobster farm are patrolled by armed security guards against illegal fishing. One of the freshwater lakes contains a hot spring and is only a short climb over limestone pinnacles from the sea. In it you find creatures of both salt and fresh water, plus a lone habituated barracuda nearly 1m (40in) long; as you go deeper, the water gets hotter. There is also a delightful hidden cavern to explore, with an underwater entrance to the sea. The diving is best from October to May. All access details given in the following site descriptions are from Coron Town.
ORIGIN OF THE CORON WRECKS
In 1944 US Admiral'Bull' Halsey had the task of checking out the Japanese firepower in preparation for the US landing on Leyte. To find safe passage for an aircraft carrier, he sent reconnaissance aircraft to photograph the Linapacan Strait and the Calamian group of islands. This resulted in a mapping officer noticing that some of the islands were moving about - a camouflaged Japanese fleet had been found. At 0900 hours on 24 September 1944 Task Force 45 carrier-based bombers attacked and sank 24 vessels around Busuanga and Coren Islands.
BLACK ISLAND WRECK
Location: The east side of Malajon Island, called Black Island because of its black rocks. The wreck is just off the beach in front of a stranded vessel on the shore. Access: By banca 3-5hr west to the west side of Busuanga Island. If you are going to dive on other wrecks en route, you can stay overnight at the little resort of Las Hamacas resort. Conditions: Normally calm with little current, but this area, out in the South China Sea, does not have protection like Coron Bay, so conditions can get rough with fierce currents, You would not normally make this journey in bad conditions, Visibility can reach 20m (65ft). Average depth: 20m (65ft) Maximum depth: 32m (104ft) The origin of this 45m (150ft) coastal vessel is not known. It sits upright but down the sandy slope from the shore, with the bow bottoming at 32m (104ft) and the stern bottoming at 20m (65ft). Relatively shallow, this dive is great for wreck-diving novices, photographers and night divers,and has plenty of fish, There are many large scorpionfish and lionfish on the superstructure, small shoals of batfish, large shoals of sweepers, snappers, fusiliers and groupers, trumpetfish, Six-banded Angelfish and Emperor Angelfish. The hull has lots of sponges and hydro ids. There are crinoids, although not in the numbers seen elsewhere in the Philippines, The western side of Malajon Island has poor corals but at times of strong currents is good for sighting large pelagic species, including Hammerhead Sharks.
TAIEI MARUlOKIKAWA MARU
Location: South of Concepcion village on Busuanga Island, on the outer edge of the Lusteveco Company Pearl Farm. This wreck no longer breaks the surface. Access: 21/2hr by banca west until south of Concepcion village, on the edge of the buoys of the pearl farm. Conditions: Normally calm but fierce currents are common. Novices should check the tide tables first and penetrate the wreck only with an experienced divemaster. Use the shotline for descent and a safety stop on ascent. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 20m (65ft), Average depth: 16m (52ft) Maximum depth: 26m (85ft) An auxiliary oil tanker of the Imperial Japanese Navy Combined Fleet in World War II, this wreck, 168m (550ft) lorlg, 10,045 gross tons, was sunk on 9 October 1944 by US aircraft. Some recent research suggests it may be the Okikawa Maru. In any case it sits almost level, with a slight list to port, pointing 3300 (compass bearing), with the bow broken off in 26m (75ft) of water. The main deck is at 16m (52ft). A good wreck for penetration and wreck-diving courses, it has everything, including good corals (very large lettuce corals), sponges and shoals of fish such as fusiliers, snappers and batfish, plus the ubiquitous lionfish and scorpionfish.
AKITSUSHIMA
Location: Between Lajo Island and Manglet Island, south of Concepcion village on Busuanga Island. Access: 21hhr west by banca, Conditions: Normally calm but with some strong currents. Not a dive for novices. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 20m (65ft) Average depth: 28m (92ft) Maximum depth: 38m (125ft) One of the few true warships among the Coron wrecks (the others were mostly auxiliary vessels), the Akitsushima, sunk on 24 September 1944 by US aircraft, was a flying boat tender, The wreck (148m [487ft] long, 4650 gross tons) lies on its port side pointing 2900 (compass bearing) in 38m (125ft) of water, with the starboard side hullat 20m (65ft). The arm of the stern crane used to load and unload the flying boat lies broken to port in 34m (112ft). The main deck is split between this crane and the funnel. There is no sign of the flying boat. This is an advanced dive due to the depth, The ship can be penetrated with care, but is also good for fish life. Large groupers lurk in the hull and shoals of barracuda, tuna and snapper are found along it.
GUNBOAT AT LUSONG ISLAND
Location: The southern end of Lusong Island. Access: 2hr west by banca. The stern breaks the surface at low tide. Conditions: Clear, calm, shallow water. Visibility can reach 30m (100ft), Average depth: 6m (20ft) Maximum depth: 10m (33ft) A shallow wreck, lying from the surface to 10m (33ft), this is equally good for snorkelling and wreck photography, and is often used as a relaxation between main dives. The wreck has been salvaged, and all the top has gone. It is nicely covered with sponges and soft corals, and has many Copperband Butterflyfish, Six-banded Angelfish, pufferfish of all sizes, batfish and various sea cucumbers. The lack of crinoids and sea stars is perhaps surprising. There is also good snorkelling on the reef beside the wreck.
UNKNOWN WRECK
Location: Between the northern end of Lusong Island and Tangat Island. Access: 2 h r west by banca. Conditions: Normally calm with some current, even in a heavy rainstorm, which I could hear while deep in the wreck. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 20m (65ft). Average depth: 19m (62ft) Maximum depth: 25m (80ft) This Japanese freighter - 137m (450ft) long, 5617 gross tons - was sunk by US aircraft on 24 September 1944. It lies on its starboard side pointing 0500 (compass bearing) in 25m (80ft) of water. The port-side hull is at a shallower 12m (40ft). This is a pretty dive. The port-side hull has many large lettuce corals, hydroids, black corals, brown finger sponges with Alabaster Sea Cucumbers wrapped around them, white sponges and sea anemones with clownfish. The fish life includes shoals of small fusiliers, batfish, large groupers, Golden Rabbitfish, damselfish and pairs of Whitecheek Monocle Bream. Be careful when penetrating the wreck: scorpionfish hide all over it.
KOGYO MARU
Location: East of the southeast corner of Lusong Island, south of Site 5. Access: 2hr west by banca. Conditions: Normally calm with some current. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 20m (65ft). Average depth: 28m (92ft) Maximum depth: 34m (110ft) A Japanese freighter sunk on 24 September 1944 by US aircraft, this wreck - 158m (520ft) long, 6352 gross tons - lies on its starboard side pointing 2300 (compass bearing) in 34m (110ft) of water. The port-side hull is at 22m (72ft). This is a very similar dive to that at Site 5, but deeper, giving you less time to explore the wreck and less light for photography.
IRAKO
Location: Southeast of Lusong island. Access: 2hr west by banca. Conditions: Normally calm with some strong currents. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 20m (65ft) Average depth: 35m (115ft) Maximum depth: 42 m (138ft) The Iraka is a Japanese refrigerated provision ship, sunk on 24 September 1944 by US aircraft; 147m (482ft) long, 9570 gross tons, the wreck is almost upright, listing about 100 to port in 42m (138ft) of water pointing 2600 (compass bearing). The main deck is at 34m (112ft). Penetration represents an advanced dive due to the depth, but the superstructure is interesting, with soft corals and sponges. Large groupers hover inside the wreck, while lionfish, shoals of barracuda and batfish are outside it.
OLYMPIA MARU
Location: West of the southwest end of Tangat Island. Access: 13/4hr west by banca. Conditions: Normally calm, with light currents that can be strong at spring tides. When I was there conditions stayed calm after a rainstorm. Visibility 8m (25ft) to 15m (50ft). Average depth: 19m (62ft) Maximum depth: 25m (80ft) Yet another Japanese freighter sunk on 24 September 1944 by US aircraft. Some 137m (450ft) long, 5617 gross tons, the wreck lies on its starboard side in 25m (80ft) of water. The port side hull is at 12m (40ft). It provides a good introduction to wreck diving for novices. There are several large pufferfish, lots of large lionfish and scorpionfish, Bumphead Parrotfish, shoals of batfish, snappers and sweepers, Six-banded Angelfish, Golden Rabbitfish, damselfish and pairs of Whitecheek Monocle Bream and lots of sponges. In good visibility this would be a good wreck for photographers.
EAST TANGAT WRECK
Location: Close to the southwest side of Tangat Island. Access: 1112hr west by banca. Conditions: Shallow calm water. Visibility 8m (25ft) to 15m (50ft). Average depth: 10m (33ft) Maximum depth: 22m (72ft) Believed to be either a tugboat or an anti-submarine craft, this was sunk on 24 September 1944 by US aircraft; 40m (130ft) long, 500 gross tons, it lies listing to starboard down a sandy slope, with the stern at 22m (72ft) and the top of the bow at 3m (10ft), pointing 320' (compass bearing). This small wreck looks as though it has seen some recent salvage work. The water is mostly shallow enough for snorkellers, good for novices and photographers and for relaxation between dives. There are no corals on the wreck, but there are large lettuce corals beside it. There are angelfish, butterflyfish particularly Copperband Butterflyfish - and white sponges. Crinoids and sea stars are conspicuous by their absence.
CORON ISLAND - FISHING BOAT
Location: A few hundred metres southwest of the entrance cove to the freshwater Barracuda Lake which is midway between Limaa Point and Balolo Poi~t on the northwest face of Coron Island. Access: 45min south-southeast by banca. Conditions: Shallow and calm with almost no current. Visibility 10m (33ft) to 25m (80ft). Average depth: 4-8m (13-25ft) Maximum depth: 12m (40ft) There are several dive/snorkel sites here, with a beautiful background of limestone rock formations, and sandy coves for picnics and sunbathing between dives. Most of the sites are shallow coral gardens, one around a limestone pinnacle which rises several metres above the water. Against the point are the remaining ribs and part of the hull of an oldwooden boat, 35m (115ft) long, that go down to 12m (40ft). This is an ideal site for photography, the wreck itself being inhabited by sponges, sea stars, butterflyfish, shoals of fry and shoals of immature barracuda. It is perfect for novices' first dives and also good for night dives.
CAY ANGAN LAKE (BARRACUDA LAKE)
Location: 30m (100ft) inland from the centre of the northwest face of Coron Island. Access: 45min south-southeast by banca to a cove of limestone cliffs midway between Limaa Point and Balolo Point on the northwest face of Coron Island. In the centre of the cove the cliffs have a gap at sea level. You climb through this gap for 3m (10ft), turn right and climb easily up limestone pinnacles for 8m (25ft), traverse to the right 4m (13ft), then turn left and descend, continuing across two small channels to the entrance to the lake. The rock is sharp, so you will need to wear bootees or sandals. Conditions: Calm lake, sheltered on all sides. Visibility varies with the mixing of hot and cold water, being 30m (100ft) near the surface but hazy where the water mixes. Average depth: Whatever you like Maximum depth: 40m (130ft) plus This is a unique dive. The turquoise freshwater lake, surr |
